Wednesday, October 14, 2009

loving her was easier than anything I'll ever do again

Pete and I drove out to Hana on one of the mornings.

We checked this little gem of a spot, but it requires a real specific swell direction and wasn't getting any action that day.

Pete tricked me into thinking the water in this cave was warm. "It's like bathwater" he says. I kinda knew better but jumped in anyways and sure enough it's plenty cold, but it's probably the clearest water I've ever seen and incredibly refreshing. As we were getting out, a tourist couple showed up and were like Oh, you can swim in there?
It's So nice, I say, you gotta jump in, it's like bathwater.

The last night I was there we slept on the cliffs above Honolua bay.

Epic point break.

We surfed it the next morning. It was waist-high at best and breaking onto about 2 feet of water over the reef, but was still one of the best mornings I've ever had.

And then to the airport. Pete, how can I thank you enough?

"Stay together friends.
Don't scatter and sleep.
Our friendship is made of being awake."