This is the morning I left for Maui. I've missed a staggering number of flights in my life and each time it happens I swear up and down that I'll never put myself through the stress again and yet I almost missed this one too. I ended up making it, but just barely, when I got to the gate they were already boarding..







The first big swell of the season rolled in the day I arrived.






This is my friend Pete's dank little house tucked away in the jungle.

The good doctor himself. Pete and I have been bros since 6th grade.




The wind died down after the first or second day and the waves cleaned up a lot.




Pete's house is on a huge piece of property that includes a farm that supplies this little fruit stand. Jonathan would hook us up every day with all kinds of fresh fruits, smoothies and banana bread. Mahalo bro!














I had a birthday while I was out there. I drove to the top of Haleakala that afternoon to try to get even further away from people as well as to try and figure out how the hell I'm suddenly so old, at least on the books. I turned 30, but I feel more like 16.






This is at the top. It's 10,023 feet in all, which is pretty crazy considering you drive up from sea level. It's usually really windy and chilly up there, but that afternoon it was comfortably warm and with no wind at all. I sat up there for a long time not wanting to leave.



