Friday, August 10, 2012

if desires were deeds

Andy, my old friend from Oregon was in town last week and we headed up the coast one evening for a surf. This was only the third time I've ever seen him on a longboard in the five years that I've known him. To add some perspective to that, this is a person who surfed 251 days in 2010, and countless times every other year. He's not against longboards, just doesn't own one. So, I always get a giant kick out of seeing him on these incredibly rare occasions when, after a few awkward moments, it all comes together and there he is, suddenly gliding along on a longboard.